Henry Reisinger looks up at the red neon sign, reading “E.M. Fenwick’s Choice Meats,” that hangs above his head. “Isn’t it beautiful,” he says. “It’s been in here since I worked here.” When his stall moved eastward up the path inside Cross Street Market 17 years ago, he paid $1,600 to have it moved, as well. “I was not going to leave that sign there; I was under it for too many years.”